Ananda in the Himalayas Review: Palace Stay and Ayurveda Retreat

Our Ananda in the Himalayas review starts with a simple observation: very few Indian hotels ask you to change how you spend your days, and this one does. Set on a hillside estate at Narendra Nagar, above the Ganga and a short drive from Rishikesh, Ananda is built around the idea that a stay should leave you slower, lighter and a little more disciplined than when you arrived. The setting is a former royal palace, the language is Ayurveda and yoga, and the audience is anyone who has ever said they need a proper break rather than a holiday.

This is a sponsored-style property feature, written to be positive but factual. We have kept to what is publicly documented, avoided inventing prices or awards, and added an honest section on who should and should not book.

Ananda in the Himalayas at a glance

• Where: Narendra Nagar, Tehri Garhwal district, Uttarakhand, in the foothills above the Ganga and near Rishikesh.
• Estate: a hillside estate of about 100 acres, wooded with sal forest, per publicly available descriptions.
• Opened: 2000, widely described as India's first destination spa.
• Palace: the Viceregal Palace, built in 1910-11 by the Maharaja of Tehri Garhwal.
• Focus: Ayurveda, yoga, Vedanta-inspired meditation and a menu of international spa therapies.
• Getting there: roughly 25 to 35 km and around 45 minutes by road from Jolly Grant airport, Dehradun, depending on the route; Rishikesh is nearer still.
• Best for: stays of three nights or more, solo wellness travellers, couples and families who want a structured reset.

The palace estate and its history

The most distinctive thing about Ananda is that the main building was never meant to be a hotel. The Viceregal Palace at Narendra Nagar was built in 1910-11 by the Maharaja of Tehri Garhwal in anticipation of a visit by the Viceroy of India. According to the commonly told account, that visit never took place, yet the palace endured and later hosted other notable guests, Lord Mountbatten among them.

That history matters because it shapes the experience. Rather than a purpose-built resort tower, you get verandas, terraces and a sense of occasion: a place designed to receive an important visitor, now receiving you. The palace houses the reception and communal spaces, and the grounds around it, with lawns, fountains, stepped gardens and views over the valley, do much of the quiet work of making the stay feel restful. Peacocks wander the lawns, which sounds like a brochure cliche until you see one crossing the path on the way to breakfast.

Ananda was established in 2000 by a family with deep roots in Indian hospitality, with Ashok Khanna described as its managing director. It earned a reputation early as a destination spa in the full sense of the phrase, where the spa is the reason for the trip, not an add-on to a room booking.

Ayurveda and yoga: what the programmes actually involve

Ananda's approach is built on Ayurveda and yoga, the two traditions most closely associated with this stretch of the Himalayan foothills, along with Vedanta-influenced meditation. A stay typically begins with a consultation with an Ayurvedic physician, who assesses your constitution and lifestyle and then recommends a plan. Treatments, diet, yoga and meditation sessions are then arranged around that plan.

The resort publicly lists a set of themed programmes, among them Yogic Detox, Weight Management, Stress Management, Ayurvedic Rejuvenation, Dhyana Meditation and Ananda Active. Names and structures can change, so treat this as a guide to the style rather than a fixed menu. In general, the longer the stay, the more meaningful the programme: a weekend gives you a taste, while a week lets the routine settle in.

A few things worth knowing before you go. First, this is a wellness stay, so expect early mornings, scheduled sessions and food that follows your plan. Second, Ayurvedic therapies are traditional wellness practices; they are not a substitute for medical treatment, and nobody should expect guaranteed outcomes. If you have a medical condition, are pregnant or take regular medication, discuss it with your own doctor before booking and declare it at the consultation.

Alongside Ayurveda, the spa offers the usual international repertoire, including massages, body wraps and facials, plus therapies drawn from other traditions such as Tibetan practices. For travellers who find a fully Ayurvedic regime too austere, this mix is useful: you can book a pair of classic massages without signing up for a full detox.

The spa is also where the property's recognition tends to be cited. Ananda has been named among the world's leading destination spas by international travel publications over the years, with publicly reported listings including Travel + Leisure naming it the top destination spa in the world in 2008, and it has featured in reader polls on several occasions. Rankings like these are snapshots, so use them as context, not a promise about the stay you will have this year.

Rooms, food and daily rhythm

Accommodation ranges from rooms in the palace itself to rooms and suites in the surrounding estate, with views of the valley or the forest. Because categories and layouts get refreshed, check the current descriptions when you book, and ask specifically about the view and the walking distance to the spa if that matters to you.

Food is a defining part of the stay. Wellness-focused menus are built around light, freshly prepared dishes, often vegetarian-leaning and aligned with your consultation. Guests who expect a buffet free-for-all will be surprised; guests who arrive hungry for something clean and well cooked tend to leave happy. If you travel with family members who are not following a programme, ask in advance how meals and dining options work for them.

A typical day, in outline, runs like this: an early yoga or meditation session, a leisurely breakfast, one or two treatments, free time for walking, reading or the pool, a light lunch, an afternoon session, and an early dinner. The structure is flexible, and part of the value is that it removes small decisions. You are not working out where to eat or what to do; you are simply following a calm timetable.

The estate is large enough for walks and quiet time, and the property also arranges excursions in the Rishikesh area. If you want a lively counterpoint to the retreat, Rishikesh itself is a short drive away, with its riverside ghats, the evening Ganga aarti, suspension bridges and yoga culture. Many guests prefer to treat the excursions as a single half-day break rather than filling the stay with sightseeing, which tends to defeat the purpose.

Adventure options in the broader Rishikesh region, such as river rafting, are seasonal and regulated, so do not assume they are available throughout the year; ask the resort or a licensed operator before planning around them. If your stay overlaps with the Char Dham pilgrimage season, roads around Rishikesh can be busier than usual, so allow extra time on transfers.

How to reach Ananda and the best time to visit

For most Indian travellers the easiest approach is by air to Dehradun's Jolly Grant airport, followed by a road transfer of roughly 45 minutes. From Delhi, the flight is short, around 45 minutes to an hour in the air, and several carriers serve the route; from Mumbai and Bengaluru you will usually connect through Delhi unless a direct flight is operating, so check current schedules. The resort can usually arrange transfers, and that is worth doing on arrival day.

The alternative is the train from Delhi to Haridwar or Dehradun, then a road transfer, which suits travellers who prefer overland routes. Driving from Delhi is also possible, but traffic around Haridwar and Rishikesh can add unpredictable time, particularly on weekends and holidays. If you value arriving relaxed, flying in is the simplest choice.

The foothills around Rishikesh are pleasant for much of the year, but each season has a different personality. Autumn and spring are generally the most comfortable, with clear skies and moderate temperatures. Winters can be crisp and bring cool mornings, which many guests enjoy for yoga and treatments; summers are warmer and can be hot in the afternoons; the monsoon brings dramatic greenery and heavy rain, which some find soothing and others find limiting. Check the weather forecast and the resort's seasonal notes when you choose dates, and be aware that rates and availability vary across seasons.

Is it worth it? An honest view

Ananda is worth it if you want the structure. The product is the programme, the setting and the calm, and the palace history adds something no new-build spa can copy. For a first serious wellness retreat in India, it is a very credible choice, and the combination of Ayurveda, yoga and a proper consultation gives you more than a standard hotel spa menu.

It is less compelling in a few situations. If you are after a lively holiday with nightlife and spontaneous plans, the pace may feel slow. If you are on a tight budget, note that destination-spa stays sit at the premium end of the Indian market, and the programme and treatment costs add to the room rate, so ask for a complete, all-inclusive quote. And if you are not willing to follow a plan, you will get less out of it. A two-night stay can feel rushed; a minimum of three to four nights is a more realistic way to judge the experience.

Finally, remember that wellness is personal. Some guests report a deep sense of rest; others simply enjoy a beautiful hotel. Set expectations accordingly, and treat benefits as possibilities, not guarantees.

Booking tips and practical advice

• Book the programme, not just the room. Ask what is included: consultations, treatments, yoga classes and meals vary by package.
• Confirm current rates directly. Prices change with season and package, and we have deliberately not quoted figures.
• Stay at least three nights if you can, and ideally a week for a meaningful detox or rejuvenation programme.
• Declare health conditions at booking and during the consultation, and speak to your own doctor first if you have any concerns.
• Pack for layers and walking: comfortable clothes for yoga, a light jacket for mornings, sunscreen and good shoes for the grounds.
• Arrange transfers in advance from Jolly Grant airport or Haridwar station, particularly if you land late.
• Plan a digital pause. The setting rewards switching off notifications for at least part of the day.
• Avoid peak pilgrimage weekends on the road if you are driving in from Delhi.
• Ask about special occasions. If you are celebrating a birthday or anniversary, the team can often advise on suitable arrangements.